By Rich Monetti
Jeb Fiorita began easing into his father’s wine business in 2004 when illness struck his Dad. Returning home from England, the former financier would completely take over Val’s Putnam Wines after his father’s death in 2011.
Fiorita continues the traditions of the family business that began in 1962 of pairing the correct wine or spirt to the customer’s taste. Customers entering the store on West Putnam Avenue shouldn’t expect a dissertation, where Fiorita simply reels off the best and worst wines.
Instead, a conversation ensues to find “the right wine,” clarified Fiorita, who also owns a second Val’s in Glenville.
On the other hand, he knows that wine’s true magic occurs in relation to randomness and an unlikely combination provides his proof. On the same day, Fiorita received a bottle of Amarone and homemade cookies. He loved the dry taste of the cookies and as he nibbled, a quencher was needed. But the wine didn’t seem right.
About to go to bed, he downed another cookie, sipped the wine and…abracadabra. The combination was incredible, he remembered and finishing both off, the serendipity says it all.
It follows that he cannot list a favorite wine, while Val’s largely fills its stock based on customer feedback. Still, Val’s inclines toward French and Italian wines and smaller wineries that produce craft brands.
The craft beer and spirit movement also applies to Val’s shelves. “The products are pristine, and the ingredients are exceptional at every level,” he boasted.
Either way, he loves sticking to the stories, because a label cannot encompass the land, family histories and passion that brings the wine home. ‘It’s my mission to stand in for the bottle and tell as much of the story that I know,’ Fiorita said.
Val’s wine tastings provide a masterclass of sorts but embarking as a collector begins by looking inside. Get to know your own pallet, he said, so you know what you want out of the experience.
In turn, Boomers with plenty of experience and demonstrated purchasing history know pretty well what they want. So Val’s elders aren’t necessarily the first to be all ears. Millennials more readily use technology to gain insight, and wine is no different. So they come in with knowledge and want to learn more.
Nonetheless, Millennial sales has the industry concerned, but the curiosity implies a strong future in Fiorita’s estimation. It also makes for better banter. “I have a captive audience that wants to learn,” he joked.
Many more wine options are also right up their alley (and obviously speaks to all). “The biggest change in the past 20 years is the quality,” he said.
A big part of the improvement attributes to going old school. “People who had gone a more modern route are now going back to natural farming techniques, and you’re seeing much more expressive wines,” he said.
Mother Nature does still reign supreme, and California wildfires said as much. Fortunately, most vineyards were left unscathed, and the only residue, as some wines may contain a smoky element.
Australia wasn’t as lucky and the jury is still out. The same uncertainty goes for global warming. “Pretty soon, it’s going to be too warm, and the grapes aren’t going to mature properly. So it’s a major concern – particularly in Europe where the climate is more erratic and the land less expansive,” he asserted.
Of course, the Coronavirus presents the current unknown, and an interruption in the free flow of worldwide goods has already been felt. “We are not receiving products as effectively as we have in the past,” he revealed.
The entrepreneur was fortunate that there was no such impediment when his father’s illness called him home. Recalling his former financial career with an office that rarely saw a smile, and ample material gain did little for employee disposition. “I knew I needed some change,” he said. “I just didn’t know what is was.”
So, coming home began his watershed moment. Initially, he stayed connected to his career as he came to better understand the backend of Val’s business.
A knowledge of wines was another story and had him only peaking in weekly. As time went on, however, his affinity for small business helped uncork an interest in the finer details. The connectivity to customers also played a part and eventually solidified a full break. “I wanted to be able to wake up in the morning with some satisfaction,” he said.
Settling in had his father returning after about a year, but that doesn’t mean the old and new approaches had father and son always saw eye to eye. “We did have our butting of heads,” he lamented.
Ultimately, they learned to listen to each other and grew closer. “Working alongside him was the best gift I ever got,” Fiorita beamed.
Fiorita believes the dynamic didn’t go unnoticed, and customers gaining an understanding of a family business, left them with a sense of Val’s story. “We are people who care about others and care about doing right by the customer,” he concluded.
